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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Microwave/Convection Has failed- need to replace
All anyone in this town had in inventory was the GE unit, so I got one and put it in today. The hardest part was getting out the 28 screws that held the old bracket on.
AlanC
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AlanC
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10/01/08 08:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Microwave/Convection Has failed- need to replace
The Sharp r1874 is what I'm looking for, but no one seems to stock it here in Amarillo. Not enough time to order on line as were scheduled to leave Amarillo today. Looks like the GE Profile may be the only way to go here with what the locals have in stock.
Thanks for all the help.
AlanC
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AlanC
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10/01/08 08:07am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Microwave/Convection Has failed- need to replace
I was using the convection feature and the whole thing just went dead. No clock, no light underneath, no fan, no light inside. I checked the outlet- power is there, left the unit unplugged overnight and plugged it in- no luck. There is no removable panel that is visible, while it is mounted anyway (to access a fuse). I wasn't planning on taking off the mount until we get settled in for the night in Amarillo.
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AlanC
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09/30/08 02:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Microwave/Convection Has failed- need to replace
We're on the road in TX, on our way to Amarillo, then west from there and our Sharp Microwave/Convection oven has failed. We're hoping to find a replacement somewhere in Amarillo and am looking for suggestions for an over the cooktop (under cabinet) unit that might work well in a motorhome. I don't know if the units are standard width or not, but the one we have is 30" wide. It has to be a microwave/convection unit as we have no oven.
Thanks in advance for the help.
AlanC
36' Monaco Dynasty
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AlanC
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09/30/08 11:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I-70, Denver to Baltimore
This past Thursday, we took I-70 from west the Frederick area to St. Louis then picked up I-44. The Pa Turnpike had construction projects showing on their web site so we took 70 to I-68 to I-79 north back to I-70. That way was only 6 miles longer - no delay, no toll. Traveling on Thursday and leaving at 5am the traffic was not bad. We did elect to take the southern route around Indianapolis (I believe it was I-465). There were a few construction areas along the way where there was one lane traffic, but we encountered no delays at all.
AlanC
36' Monaco Dynasty
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AlanC
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09/21/08 06:45am |
Roads and Routes
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RE: I-70 OH, IN, IL- Long lines for fuel (diesel)????
Thanks for all the info. Sorry to hear about all the problems there in OH. Based on these reports it looks like my fuel stop will be in IL after all.
AlanC
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AlanC
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09/17/08 06:09pm |
Roads and Routes
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I-70 OH, IN, IL- Long lines for fuel (diesel)????
I'm planning on heading out west tomorrow on I-70 and was just reading on MSN about how the midwest was hit by flooding, winds, and power outages from IKE. They were also talking about long lines for fuel in some areas of OH, IN, IN, and MO, but were not specific as to where. I can make it to IL before I have to fuel up, but if there is an issue there, I'll probably stop and top off in WV. Does anyone have any knowledge of the areas/conditions at fuel stops along I-70 in those states??
Thanks for the help
AlanC
36' Monaco Dynasty
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AlanC
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09/17/08 01:26pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: What to use on Windshield?
I use a mixtue of white vinegar and water in a spray bottle, then go over it with one of those sponge/squeegie things and the bugs come right off.
AlanC
36' Monaco Dynasty
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AlanC
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09/17/08 12:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Edisto Island SP
We stayed there a couple of years ago and didn't find out that the fresh water hook ups were salty until after we had hooked up and run it through our fresh water system. Don't know if it's still like that or not, so you might want to call the park and ask. You could buy drinking water at the small store across the road from the park or go to the fire department and get up to 5 gallons (in your container) a day for free (they had a reverse osmosis unit). Hopefully that situation is remedied now.
AlanC
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AlanC
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09/01/08 09:34pm |
Campgrounds, Resorts and Attractions
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RE: Acrylic or Elastomeric topcoat on a fiberglass roof
Thanks for the photos and info. Looks great!
AlanC
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AlanC
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08/20/08 07:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Acrylic or Elastomeric topcoat on a fiberglass roof
Thanks for the responses. Works2RV, does your Beaver have a fiberglass roof?? Did you put it on for its insulating property or to seal crazing in your roof??
AlanC
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AlanC
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08/18/08 06:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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Acrylic or Elastomeric topcoat on a fiberglass roof
Back in late 2003 when we were vacationing in FL, we took our 1992 Monaco Dynasty to a service facility there because the fiberglass roof had a lot of crazing. They put a coating on it to seal it, which I found out later was Plas-T-Cote (acrylic) rubber roof coating. It filled in or covered the crazing nicely and lasted about 2.5 years before it started wearing off, chalking and leaving white streaks down the side of the coach. I did it the next time myself in July of 2006 and since then the coach has been in OK and points west where it has gotten a lot more sun. The coating has only lasted 2 years this time and needs to be done again. I’m wondering if I’m better off sticking with Plas-T-Cote or switching to an elastomeric rubber roof coating like Kool Seal. I’d appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience using either on a fiberglass roof.
Thanks
AlanC
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AlanC
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08/17/08 08:37pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Chassis Electrical Problem????
Thanks to everyone for the help. I installed the new isolator today, checked the voltages, and everything is fine.
AlanC
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AlanC
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07/19/08 11:59am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Anyone ever service a combomatic washer pump??
I called the number listed on the Splendide web site today, found out I could get a new pump for $120 and that it's not too hard to get to. The fellow suggested that the pump could be jammed and told me how to try and free it up without pulling the machine out of the cabinet. It worked! Apparently even though the lint filter was kept clean, something had gotten into the pump. The washer appears to be working fine now.
AlanC
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AlanC
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07/18/08 07:36pm |
Tech Issues
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Anyone ever service a combomatic washer pump??
I was doing a load of laundry in our Splendide Combomatic (SWD 1054M) non-vented washer/dryer tonight when the pump appears to have stopped working (yes, I have been cleaning my lint filter on a regular basis). The washer will go through the motion of the wash or rinse cycle, but it will not drain, it just hums. I siphoned the water out and got it to go through the spin cycle, but again, when it goes in to the dry cycle, the drum will rotate and get warm, but pump it just hums a bit when it would usually cycle water through the heat exchanger. I’m going to call Splendide tomorrow, but I was wondering how hard it is to access the pump to check it out (assuming I can easily slide the washer out of its compartment).
Specifically, has anyone serviced or replaced the pump on one of the Combomatic units and if so, what is the best way to do it? Repair or turning the space into storage are my only options, as my wife has advised me I won’t be spending the money on a new one.
Thanks for the help.
AlanC
1992 Monaco Dynasty 36
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AlanC
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07/17/08 08:22pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chassis Electrical Problem????
Thanks again for the help.
In addition to the unbalanced voltage, there was some meltage on the side of the isolator where the low voltage was. I'm wondering if when my 12 volt master breaker for the house side went, if the extra resistance that existed for a while (evidenced by some meltage)caused a probem with the isolator.
I called HEHR this morning and found a dealer right here in Oklahoma City (where I am temporarily). They are an oil field equipment supplier and said that they will have it for me tomorrow afternoon or Wednesday morning. I found one on the internet, but it was $80 more than what I'm paying here.
AlanC
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AlanC
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07/14/08 06:48pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chassis Electrical Problem????
Thanks a lot for the isolator suggestion. I checked the voltage with the engine running and got 16.4 VDC at the alternator connection, 15.7 VDC at one of the battery connections, and 13.5 VDC at the other battery connection. I then stacked the wires on the alternator connection and used the emergency start switch to bridge the batteries when I started it. I then got 14.36 VDC at the output and the inverter worked fine. I revved the engine up just to make sure and it did not cut off.
Now for the next question, concerning replacing the isolator. I have a HEHR Powerline 190 amp alternator and the isolator is a HEHR Powerline 190 amp Model 22-31 PL5 190-2. Am I better off trying to track down a HEHR unit to replace it or should I just go to a truck supply place and get any 1-in-2-out, 190 amp unit??
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
AlanC
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AlanC
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07/13/08 03:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Chassis Electrical Problem????
Thanks for the responses. I'll do some more checking in the morning.
Now that I think about it, even though the diodes checked out fine, I seem to recall evidence that the isolator got hot at some time.
AlanC
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AlanC
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07/12/08 11:24pm |
Tech Issues
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Chassis Electrical Problem????
I have an electrical problem that is driving me bonkers
Our 1992 Monaco Dynasty has a two battery (house-4D, Chassis- 8D) system. The chassis battery is charged only by the engine alternator, and is not connected to the inverter/charger or converter.
Our EMS Heart Interface 1200 watt inverter/charger (with remote panel) works properly as a charger when hooked up to shore power and works properly as an inverter (showing 126 volts measured on an analog voltmeter at an outlet) when turned on after disconnecting from shore power and the coach engine is not running. When the coach engine is started though, the inverter will shutdown shortly after being turned on, apparently due to too much DC voltage being input (voltmeter shows 131 AC volts at idle and is pegged at 134 AC volts at cruise rpm). The voltmeter is one of those plug in types that Camping World sells. I understand that accurate voltage readings my be difficult to get from an inverter and in fact, my digital voltmeter showed 109.5 volts with the engine not running and the reading decreased when the engine was started and rpms increased.
At rest, with no shore power, and the engine not running, my 12 volt system shows 12.79 volts. While driving, our 12 volt outlet in the coach shows up to 16.44 volts. Sometimes, after driving for 3-4 hours the voltage will drop to 14.6 and the inverter will function.
I have had the 190 amp alternator checked out and had the brushes and bearings replaced, had the voltage regulator tested, cleaned off all the connections, and also tried another voltage regulator. I have replaced the 12v house battery (4 D) which was just under 4 years old, and tested the diodes in the battery isolator. The engine battery (8D), which is 3 years old, seems to be working fine. I have tried putting the chassis battery on an external charger to top it off before driving, but this has not made a difference. I have also tried two of the small (cigarette lighter plug in type inverters) in our 12v outlet and they seem to shut down due to over voltage as well, but when the engine is turned off, they work fine.
The only thing that I can remember happening that may be somehow connected to this problem is that the main (80 amp) 12 volt circuit breaker that is connected to the house battery failed while the motorhome was plugged in to shore power. During the time the battery was not connected, the converter was still providing 12 volts to the system.
Any suggestions as to what the problem may be would be greatly appreciated.
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AlanC
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07/12/08 01:11pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Mechanical Problem!
Last year, we had a fuel shutoff solenoid fail that caused the same symtoms.
AlanC
36' Monaco Dynasty
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AlanC
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06/06/08 11:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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